Once upon a time, in the land of fine food we call France, just outside the city of Grenoble where the Alpine trout streams run clear and cold, a poor chef sat aside a stream. The chef was forlorn, having nothing to cook.
All of a sudden, a beautiful speckled trout jumped out of the stream and landed in her lap! Startled, the chef stood up to see the fish fall to the ground, and, with one last flap of its tail, give his life up at her feet. The chef was even more astounded to see, clamped tightly in the fish’s strong jaws, a perfect lemon.
Inspired, the chef picked up the noble fish and turned to leave. Her chef’s coat caught in a caper bush, some of the branch pulling free and trailing behind her as she fled.
Through the parsley field she ran, and sprigs of the fresh herb floated up and shrouded the trout from the warm sun. She passed by a farmer milking a brown cow. Seeing the beauty of the fish in her arms, the farmer offered her a freshly churned crock of the finest butter in which to brown the fish.
As she rounded the last corner on her way to the restaurant, she crashed into the baker, who was just carrying a new sack of flour into the shop. The chef’s hands and the trout were dusted in white, and the baker, vexed, tossed a sack of croutons after them . . . .
Now, if only the fish could be magically filleted, pin bones removed. That would be a great fish story. But as it is, if you are lucky enough to catch a noble trout, there’s no better way to prepare it than this classic bistro recipe.
Truite Grenobloise
serves 4
2 small lemons, plus wedges for garnish
2 slices white bread, crusts removed
7 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 whole trout, filleted, pin bones and skin removed
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
¼ cup all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons drained capers, rinsed, coarsely chopped
2 tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, plus sprigs for garnish
Using a paring knife, cut ends from lemons. Working from top to bottom, cut off peel, pith and membrane, following curve of lemon. Hold lemon over a bowl to catch juice. Work knife in toward center along segments as close to membranes as possible, letting segments drop into the bowl. Squeeze juice from membranes into bowl. Coarsely chop segments.
Using a serrated knife, cut bread in to ¼-inch dice. Melt 1 tablespoon butter in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add bread. Cook, stirring occasionally, until golden brown, about 4 minutes. Transfer croutons to paper towels to drain. Wipe out skillet; set aside.
Season trout with salt and pepper. Dredge in flour; shake off excess. Heat 2 tablespoons butter and 1 tablespoon oil in skillet over medium-high heat until butter has melted and oil is hot. Add 2 fillets; cook, turning once, until golden, 1 ½ to 2 minutes per side. Transfer to a serving plate. Wipe out skillet. Add 2 tablespoons butter and remaining tablespoon oil; repeat with remaining fish.
Add remaining 2 tablespoons butter to skillet. Cook over medium-high heat until butter begins to turn brown, about 1 minute. Quickly remove from heat, and add capers, parsley, and lemon segments; swirl skillet to combine. Pour sauce over trout fillets, dividing evenly. Sprinkle with croutons. Garnish with lemon wedges and parsley.
Recipe courtesy Martha Stewart Living
Editor’s Note: Angela Denstad Stigeler writes a food column each week for the Caledonia Argus. She, her husband and their two young children live in Caledonia.
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